Challenge of the Andes : the Conquest of Mount Huantsan by C.g. Egeler in Co-operation With T. De Booy ; Translated From the Dutch by W.E. James
New York : David McKay Co., 1955. First edition. Hardcover. 203 pages : illustrations ; 22 cm. $4.50 dust jacket. Light foxing to dust jacket. Pages toned and are unmarked. Binding is firm.
Challenge of the Andes
The Conquest of Mount Huantsan
By C. G. EGELER in cooperation with T. DE BOOY
This is an adventure story: a hair-raising narrative of grit, daring, and endurance; a story of appalling dangers and exhilarating triumphs.
For decades the long, snow-capped range of the Cordillera Blanca has challenged the climbers of the world. The last supreme challenge was Huantsdn: 21,000 feet of deep crevasses, of soft, treacherous snow, of knife edges and vertical walls and tremendous cornices of ice. It was the dream of two young Dutch geologists, Egeler and de Booy, that they should be the first to climb it.
Accompanied by Lionel Terray, master French Alpinist and veteran of Annapurna, they reached Peru only to find that an American expedition was in the field before them. The news spurred them on, and with grim determination they overcame, one by one, the countless difficulties in their path: difficulties of acclimatization and organization; difficulties with guides and porters who were notably lacking in the qualities that have made the Sherpas legendary. But, at last, they were in a position to launch the assault.
From there the story sweeps to its tremendous climax. Undeterred by blizzards and frostbite, they struggled upward. For sixty hours they were trapped by hundred-mile winds. Once de Booy slipped head first down a cliff and was saved from death by a miracle. But the summit was reached, and they were the first to plant their flags in its untrodden snow.
Told with vigor, with engaging modesty and great good humor, this narrative is a gripping testimony to the courage of men who climb high mountains for the thrill of the challenge and the glory of the summit. To read it is to share every moment of peril, fortitude, and triumph. The authors provide a scientific appendix giving a summary of their researchers in Andean geology.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
C. G. Egeler is a Dutch geologist. His enthusiasm fox mountain climbing was first fired when he was four years old. His parents, who enjoyed climbing, took him to the Swiss Alps, and as he grew up, he began climbing under their guidance. Now thirty-six, he is on the staff of the Geological Institute of the Amsterdam University.
T. de Booy is from Aerdenhout, Holland, and was educated at Amsterdam University. He first met Mr. Egeler when they both were accepted as members of a Dutch expedition to the Himalayas. Disappointed when the expedition fell through, Egeler and de Booy joined forces—and the result was the conquest of Huantsdn. Mr. de Booy is twenty-eight years old and a geologist.
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